Publication: Weekend GetAways
Philadelphia is a city of superlatives | |
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WEEKEND GETAWAYS - Friday, October 5, 2007
Make The Most Of Your Vacation - From Coast to Coast!
Greetings Getaway Lover,
"On the whole, I'd rather be in Philadelphia." W. C.
Fields may have been joking when he wrote his epitaph,
but if he were here today, he would eat his words. They
no longer roll up the sidewalks at night in Philadelphia.
A construction boom, a restaurant renaissance, and
cultural revival have helped transform the city. For
more than a decade, there has been an optimistic mood,
aggressive civic leadership, and national recognition of
what the locals have long known: Philadelphia can be a
very pleasant place to live -- a city with an impressive
past and a fascinating future.
Philadelphia is a place of contrasts: Grace Kelly and
Rocky Balboa; Le Bec-Fin -- one of the nation's finest
French haute cuisine restaurants -- and the fast-food
heaven of Jim's Steaks; Independence Hall and the Mario
Lanza Museum; 18th-century national icons with 21st-
century-style skyscrapers soaring above them. The world-
renowned Philadelphia Orchestra performs in a stunning
concert hall -- the focal point of efforts to transform
Broad Street into a multicultural Avenue of the Arts.
Along the same street, 25,000 Mummers dressed in outra-
geous sequins and feathers historically have plucked
their banjos and strutted their stuff to the strains of
"Oh, Dem Golden Slippers" on New Year's Day. City
residents include descendants of the staid Quaker found-
ing fathers, the self-possessed socialites of the Main
Line (remember Katharine Hepburn and Cary Grant in The
Philadelphia Story?), and the unrestrained sports fans,
who are as vocal as they are loyal.
Happy Trails,
Jan
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--DESTINATION: Philadelphia
Historically speaking, Philadelphia is a city of super-
latives: the world's largest municipal park; the best
collection of public art in the United States; the
widest variety of urban architecture in America; and
according to some experts, the greatest concentration
of institutions of higher learning in the country.
Philadelphia is known as a city of neighborhoods (109
by one count). Shoppers haggle over the price of
tomatoes in South Philly's Italian Market; families
picnic in the parks of Germantown; street vendors hawk
soft pretzels in Logan Circle; and all over town kids
play street games such as stickball, stoopball,
wireball, and chink. It's a city of neighborhood
loyalty: ask a native where he's from and he'll tell
you: Fairmount, Fishtown, or Frankford, rather than
Philadelphia. The city's population is less transient
than that of other large cities; people who are born
here generally remain, and many who leave home to
study or work eventually return. Although the popula-
tion is nearly 1.5 million, its residents are
intricately connected; on any given day, a
Philadelphian is likely to encounter someone with
whom he grew up. The "it's-a-small-world" syndrome
makes people feel like they belong.
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MURPHY'S LAW STRIKES AGAIN!
Up a creek. In a fix. Backed into a corner. In a pickle. We've all
been there. You're minding your own business - depositing a check,
heading to the airport, driving down the street -- and suddenly the
situation spins out of control.
The key to getting through these situations successfully and
gracefully is to regain control as quickly and painlessly as
possible. To continue visit:
Murphy's law Strikes again
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--WHAT TO DO AND SEE:
Academy of Music
Arts/Performance Venue, Avenue of the Arts
The only surviving European-style opera house in America
is the current home of the Opera Company of Philadelphia
and the Pennsylvania Ballet; for the past century, it
was home to the Philadelphia Orchestra. Designed by
Napoleon Le Brun and Gustav Runge and completed in 1857,
the building has a modest exterior; the builders ran out
of money and couldn't put marble facing on the brick, as
they had intended. The brick hides a lavish, neobaroque
interior modeled after Milan's La Scala opera house, with
gilt, carvings, murals on the ceiling, and a huge
Victorian crystal chandelier. www.academyofmusic.org.
Address: Broad and Locust Sts., Philadelphia, PA, USA
Phone: 215/893-1999 box office
American Helicopter Museum & Education Center
Museum/Gallery, West Chester
Ever since Philadelphian Harold Pitcairn made the first
rotorcraft flight in 1928, the Southeastern Pennsylvania
area has been considered the birthplace of the helicopter
industry. In fact, two of the three major U.S. helicopter
manufacturers trace their roots to this region. This
heritage is showcased here, and you can learn about and
climb aboard nearly three dozen vintage and modern air-
craft that reflect the copter's historic roles in war
and rescue missions, in agriculture, and in police
surveillance. www.helicoptermuseum.org. COST: $6. OPEN:
Wed.-Sat. 10-5, Sun. noon-5.
Address: 1200 American Blvd., West Chester, PA, USA
Phone: 610/436-9600
Benjamin Franklin Bridge
Bridge/Tunnel, Old City
When the bridge opened in 1926, its 1,750-foot main
span made it the longest suspension bridge in the
world. Paul Cret, architect of the Rodin Museum, was
the designer. The bridge has been having some rust
problems of late, but there's a massive project
underway through 2006 to restore its glorious blue
paint job. The bridge is most impressive at night,
when it's lighted. Start the 1¾-mi walk (one-way)
from either the Philadelphia side, two blocks north
of the U.S. Mint, or the Camden, New Jersey, side.
www.drpa.org. COST: Free. OPEN: Daily 6 AM-around
6 PM weather permitting.
Address: 5th and Vine Sts., Philadelphia, PA, USA
Phone: 215/218-3750
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Other Places of Interest:
Betsy Ross House
Museum/Gallery, Old City
It's easy to find this little brick house with the gabled
roof: just look for the 13-star flag displayed from its
2nd-floor window. Whether Betsy Ross, also known as
Elizabeth Griscom Ross Ashbourn Claypoole (1752-1836) --
who worked in her family's flag-making and upholstery
business -- actually lived here and whether she really
made the first Stars and Stripes is debatable. Nonethe-
less, the house, built about 1760, is a splendid example
of a Colonial Philadelphia home and is fun to visit.
Owned and maintained by the city, the eight-room house
overflows with artifacts such as a family Bible and Betsy
Ross's chest of drawers and reading glasses. The small
rooms hold period pieces that reflect the life of this
hardworking Quaker (who died at the age of 84, outliving
three husbands). You may have to wait in line here, as
this is one of the city's most popular attractions. The
house, with its winding narrow stairs, is not accessible
to people with disabilities. Alongside the house is brick-
paved Atwater Kent Park, with a fountain, benches, and
the graves of Betsy Ross and her third husband, John
Claypoole. www.betsyrosshouse.org. COST: $3. OPEN: Apr.-
Sept., daily 10-5; Oct.-Mar., Tues.-Sun 10-5.
Address: 239 Arch St., Philadelphia, PA, USA
Phone: 215/686-1252
Bryn Athyn Cathedral
Religious Site, Bryn Athyn
At one of the most beautiful spots in the Philadelphia
area, atop a hill overlooking the Pennypack Valley,
stands a spectacular cathedral built in 12th-century
Romanesque and 14th-century Gothic styles. The cathedral
is the Episcopal seat of the Church of the New Jerusalem,
a sect based on the writings of the Swedish scientist
and mystic Emanuel Swedenborg (1688-1772). The main
patrons of the church are descendants of John Pitcairn,
an industrialist who made his fortune in paint and plate
glass. Construction of the cathedral began in 1914 and
went on for decades. It was built according to the
medieval guild system: all materials -- wood, metal,
glass, stone -- were brought to craftspeople at the site,
and everything was fashioned by hand. The stained glass
includes two colors, striated ruby and cobalt blue, found
nowhere else in the Americas. From Center City, go north
on Broad Street to Route 611, right on County Line Road,
and south on Route 232 to the second traffic light; the
cathedral will be on your right. 15 mi north of Center
City. www.brynathyncathedral.org. COST: Free. OPEN:
Tues.-Sun. 9:30-4; guides offer 30-min tours between 1
and 4 (sometimes preempted by special events); visitors
welcome at services Sun. 9:30 (families with children)
and 11 (adults).
Address: Rte. 232, Huntingdon Pike at Cathedral Rd.,
Bryn Athyn, PA, USA
Phone: 215/947-0266
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--WHERE TO SLEEP:
Alexander Inn
$90 to $190, Center City
The nicely refurbished rooms at this small hotel have
an art deco feel. The property is close to the
Pennsylvania Convention Center, the Avenue of the Arts,
and most downtown attractions. It has a largely gay
clientele, and is near some of the city's gay bars.
www.alexanderinn.com. 48 rooms. In-room: ethernet,
dial-up. In-hotel: gym, concierge, parking (fee), no-
smoking rooms, Internet. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Continental
breakfast.
Address: 12th and Spruce Sts., Philadelphia, PA 19107,
USA Phone: 215/923-3535 or 877/253-8466
Fax: 215/923-1004
Brandywine River Hotel
$90 to $190, Chadds Ford
Near the Brandywine River Museum and the Chadds Ford
Inn, this two-story hotel has tasteful Queen Anne-style
furnishings, classic English chintz, and floral fabrics
that create a homey bed-and-breakfast feeling. Suites
have fireplaces and whirlpool baths. Afternoon tea with
homemade cookies and a plentiful Continental breakfast
with fresh fruit and homemade muffins are included;
wine and beer are available in the lobby's cash bar.
Request a room that overlooks the surrounding pasture.
www.brandywineriverhotel.com. 29 rooms, 10 suites. In-
room: refrigerator (some). In-hotel: bar, gym, some pets
allowed. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Continental breakfast.
Address: U.S. 1 and Rte. 100, Chadds Ford, PA 19317, USA
Phone: 610/388-1200
Fax: 610/388-1200
Chamounix Mansion
Under $90, W. Fairmount Park
This is the cheapest place to stay in Philadelphia --
$15 a night if you're an American Youth Hostel member,
$18 if you're not. The restored 1802 Federal-style
country estate is loaded with character. Flags line the
entrance hall; rooms are styled after an 1850 country
villa and walls are decorated with old maps, sketches,
and paintings. There's a self-service kitchen. Chamounix
Mansion is a 15-minute walk from a bus stop; call for
directions. www.philahostel.org. 10 rooms for 80 people,
with shared baths. In-room: no phone, no TV. In-hotel:
bar, bicycles, laundry facilities, Internet. MC, V.
Closed Dec. 15-Jan. 15.
Address: 3250 Chamounix Dr., Philadelphia, PA 19131, USA
Phone: 215/878-3676 or 800/379-0017
Fax: 215/871-4313
--WHERE TO DINE:
Aden
Mediterranean, $8 to $20, Northern Liberties
This charming, funky restaurant turns out astonishing
food from an open kitchen. The owners are a self-taught
chef, Hadaar Nisimi, and his sister, Nurit, who serves
as the restaurant's hostess. A grilled vegetable salad
is a standout, and osso buco with barley risotto is a
cornerstone of the menu. There's usually a selection of
nicely prepared fish dishes. A pleasant garden is open
in good weather. AE, D, MC, V. BYOB. No lunch weekends.
Address: 614 N. 2nd St., Philadelphia, PA, USA
Phone: 215/627-9844
Alma de Cuba
Latin American, $14 to Over $26, Center City
A bit of scrolled ironwork greets diners, who have to
traipse up one or two flights of stairs to get to the
action. A bar that pulsates with Cuban music lets
everyone know this is a happening place. But the decor
is evocative of -- what? Bare brick walls and a lot of
black paint don't say much about Cuba. The food contains
a few genuine dishes, such as lechon asado (crispy
roasted baby pig) and shrimp ceviche, all prepared by
chef Douglas Rodriguez. Although oysters are not
generally considered Cuban, they are a knockout here.
Bring a flashlight if you want a shot at reading the
menu. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.
Address: 1623 Walnut St., Philadelphia, PA, USA
Phone: 215/988-1799
Astral Plane
Contemporary, $8 to Over $26, Center City
This charming townhouse is filled with mementos from
more romantic eras. It was a hangout for stage and
screen folk passing through town, and their favorite
dishes still pepper the menu. Favorites include
macadamia-encrusted sea bass and chicken stuffed with
prosciutto and fresh mozzarella. The host's welcome is
extraordinary and the locals who have adopted the
restaurant for many years set a casual, funky tone. MC,
V. No dinner Sun.
Address: 1708 Lombard St., Philadelphia, PA, USA
Phone: 215/546-6230
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The travel destinations and events that appear in this
newsletter have been selected by our editors. Apart from
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