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Publication: Weekend GetAways
California Wine Country

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       WEEKEND GETAWAYS - Friday, August 17, 2007
    Make The Most Of Your Vacation - From Coast to Coast!

Greetings Getaway Lover, 

We are off to do some wine tasting in California Wine 

In 1975 Napa Valley had no more than 20 wineries; today 
there are well over 200. In Sonoma County, where the web 
of vineyards is looser, there are 200 or so wineries, and 
development is now claiming the cool Carneros region, at 
the head of the San Francisco Bay, deemed ideal for grow-
ing the chardonnay grape. Within these combined regions 
of the Wine Country, at least 120 wineries have opened 
in the last seven years alone. Nowadays many individual 
grape growers produce their own wines instead of selling 
their grapes to larger wineries. As a result, smaller 
"boutique" wineries harvest excellent, reasonably priced 
wines that have caught the attention of connoisseurs and 
critics, while the larger wineries consolidate land and 
expand their varietals. 

Happy Trails,


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California Wine Country

There's more to do in the Wine Country than merely taste 
wine. Mineral water soaks, mud baths, and massage are 
rejuvenating local traditions. Calistoga is famous for 
its warm, spring water-fed mineral tubs and mud baths 
full of volcanic ash. Sonoma, St. Helena, and other towns 
also have full-service spas. Among other diversions, you 
can dine at superb restaurants, take a balloon ride over 
the vineyards or a bike tour through them. 


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Arrowood Vineyards & Winery 
Winery/Brewery, Glen Ellen 
Arrowood Vineyards & Winery is neither as old nor as 
famous as some of its neighbors, but winemakers and 
critics are quite familiar with the wines produced 
here, especially the chardonnays, cabernet sauvignons, 
and syrahs. The winery's harmonious architecture over-
looking the Valley of the Moon earned it an award from 
the Sonoma Historic Preservation League, and the wine-
making equipment is state-of-the-art. A stone fireplace 
in the tasting room makes this an especially enticing 
destination in winter. The winery has been owned by 
Robert Mondavi since 2000, but winemaker Richard 
Arrowood has stayed on. www.arrowoodvineyards.com. COST: 
Tastings $5-$10, tour $10 (includes tasting). OPEN: Daily 
10-4:30; tours by appointment. 

Address: 14347 Sonoma Hwy./Rte. 12, Glen Ellen, CA, USA
Phone: 707/935-2600

Bodega Marine Laboratory 
Zoo/Aquarium, Bodega 
For a closer look at Bodega Bay, visit the Bodega Marine 
Laboratory, a 326-acre reserve on nearby Bodega Head. 
Open Friday from 2 to 4 PM, the lab gives free tours and 
peeks at intertidal invertebrates, such as sea stars and 
sea anemones (suggested donation of $2). 

Phone: 707/875-2211

Culinary Institute of America 
Educational Institution, St. Helena 
The West Coast headquarters of the Culinary Institute 
of America, the country's leading school for chefs, 
are in the Greystone Winery, a national historic land-
mark and, at 117,000 square feet, once the largest 
stone winery in the world. The campus consists of 30 
acres of herb and vegetable gardens, a 15-acre merlot 
vineyard, and a Mediterranean-inspired restaurant, 
which is open to the public. Also on the property are 
a well-stocked culinary store, a quirky corkscrew 
display, and a culinary library. Daily one-hour cooking 
demonstrations begin at 1:30 and 3:30, with an extra 
class at 10:30 on weekend mornings. www.ciachef.edu. 
COST: Free, demonstrations $12.50. OPEN: Restaurant Sun.
-Thurs. 11:30-9, Fri. and Sat. 11:30-10; store and 
museum daily 10-6. 

Address: 2555 Main St., St. Helena, CA, USA
Phone: 800/333-9242 

Other Places of Interest:

Ferrari-Carano Winery 
Winery/Brewery, Healdsburg 
Noted for its beautiful Italian villa-style winery and 
visitor center, Ferrari-Carano Winery produces mostly 
zinfandels, chardonnays, fumé blancs, and merlots. 
Tours cover not only the wine-making facilities and 
underground cellar, but also the lush gardens. 
www.ferrari-carano.com. COST: Tasting $3, tour free. 
OPEN: Daily 10-5; tours Mon.-Sat. at 10 AM, by 

Address: 8761 Dry Creek Rd., Dry Creek Valley, CA, USA
Phone: 707/433-6700

Indian Springs 
Spa, Calistoga 
Indian Springs, an old-time spa, has welcomed clients 
to mud baths, mineral pools, and steam rooms, all 
supplied with mineral water from its three geysers, 
since 1871. Today it continues to offer a wide variety 
of spa treatments and volcanic-ash mud baths, and has 
an Olympic-size mineral-water pool, kept at 90°F to 
102°F, depending on the season. The spa rents 16 
bungalows ($$$-$$$$) ranging from a studio duplex to 
a three-bedroom house. Reservations are recommended 
for spa treatments. www.indianspringscalistoga.com. 
OPEN: Daily 9-8. 

Address: 1712 Lincoln Ave./Rte. 29, Calistoga, CA, USA
Phone: 707/942-4913
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Applewood Inn 
$150 to Over $250, Guerneville 
On a knoll in the shelter of towering redwoods, this hy-
brid inn has two distinct types of accommodations. Those 
in the original Belden House are comfortable but modest 
in scale. Most of the 10 accommodations in the newer 
buildings are larger and airier. The buildings cluster 
around a Mediterranean-style courtyard complete with 
gurgling fountains. Cooking classes are available at an 
on-site cooking school, La Buona Forchetta. 
www.applewoodinn.com. 19 rooms. In-room: no a/c (some), 
dial-up. In-hotel: restaurant, pool, no-smoking rooms. 
AE, MC, V. Full breakfast. 

Address: 13555 Rte. 116, Guerneville, CA 95421, USA
Phone: 707/869-9093 or 800/555-8509
Fax: 707/869-9170

Beltane Ranch 
$90 to $199, Glen Ellen 
On a slope of the Mayacamas range just a few miles from 
Glen Ellen, this 1892 ranch house stands on 1,600 acres. 
All of the charmingly old-fashioned rooms, decorated with 
antiques and supplied with quilts, have separate entrances, 
and some open onto a wraparound balcony ideal for whiling 
away lazy afternoons. The detached cottage, once the 
gardener's quarters, has a small sitting room. Formerly a 
turkey farm, the spread is traversed by an 8-mi hiking 
trail that's popular with guests. www.beltaneranch.com. 3 
rooms, 3 suites. In-room: no a/c, no TV. In-hotel: tennis 
court. No credit cards. Full breakfast. 

Address: 11775 Sonoma Hwy./Rte. 12, Glen Ellen, CA 95442, 
USA Phone: 707/996-6501

Calistoga Spa Hot Springs 
$90 to $199, Calistoga 
Though the rooms are standard motel issue, their well-
equipped kitchenettes and the property's four outdoor 
heated mineral pools make this a popular spot for those 
who want to enjoy Calistoga's famed waters on a budget. 
An on-site spa offers mud baths, massage, and other 
services at reasonable rates, and its location on a quiet 
side street one block from Calistoga's main drag is another 
plus. www.calistogaspa.com. 51 rooms, 1 suite. In-room: 
kitchen. In-hotel: pools, gym, spa, laundry facilities, no-
smoking rooms. MC, V. 

Address: 1006 Washington St., Calistoga, CA 94515, USA
Phone: 707/942-6269
Fax: 707/942-4214

All Seasons Café 
French, $15 to $30, Calistoga 
Bistro cuisine takes a California spin in this sun-filled 
space, where tables topped with flowers sit upon a black-
and-white checkerboard floor. The seasonal menu, which 
includes homemade breads and dessert, might include 
organic greens, hand-rolled tagliatelle, pan-seared 
salmon, or braised lamb shank. Attentive service contri-
butes to the welcoming atmosphere. D, MC, V. Closed Mon. 
No lunch most Mon.-Wed.; call for additional lunch dates 
in summer and fall. 

Address: 1400 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, CA, USA
Phone: 707/942-9111

Bistro Don Giovanni 
Italian, $10 to $30, Napa 
Terra-cotta tile floors and high ceilings surround this 
lively, festive bistro. The Italian food with a 
Californian spin is simultaneously inventive and comfort-
ing: risotto with squab and radicchio, pizza with pear 
and prosciutto, and rabbit braised in cabernet. Whole, 
wood-oven-roasted fish is an unusual specialty. Seats on 
the covered patio are coveted in fair weather. AE, D, DC, 
MC, V. 

Address: 4110 Howard La./Rte. 29, Napa, CA, USA
Phone: 707/224-3300

Boon Fly Cafe 
American, $10 to $30, Napa 
This newcomer to the Carneros region, west of downtown 
Napa, has a rural charm-meets-industrial chic theme. 
Outside, rocking chairs and swings occupy the porch of 
a modern red barn; inside, high ceilings and galvanized 
steel tabletops set a sleek and stylish mood. The small 
menu of modern California cuisine includes dishes such 
as roast organic chicken with sautéed mushrooms and 
artisanal cheese plates. Though the wine list is impres-
sive for such a moderately priced spot, kids' dishes 
such as "Cheese Pizza the Adults Can't Have" hint that 
the proprietors don't take themselves too seriously. 
Reservations not accepted. AE, D, MC, V. 

Address: 4048 Sonoma Hwy., Napa, CA, USA
Phone: 707/299-4872


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