Publication: Weekend GetAways Walkers Paradise | |
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WEEKEND GETAWAYS - Friday, August 25, 2006
Make The Most Of Your Vacation - From Coast to Coast!
Greetings Getaway Lover,
This Weekend We're off to a Walkers Paradise.....
New York is, above all, a walker's city. Along its busy
streets, an endless variety of sights unfolds everywhere
you go, and the character of its neighborhoods changes
every few blocks. Quaint town houses stand shoulder to
shoulder with sleek glass towers, gleaming gourmet
supermarkets sit around the corner from dusty thrift
shops, and chic bistros inhabit the storefronts of soot-
smudged warehouses. Many visitors, beguiled into walking
a little farther, then a little farther still, often have
stumbled upon their trip's most memorable moments.
Happy Trails,
Jan
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--DESTINATION: New York
If you plod dutifully from point to point, nose buried
in a guidebook, you'll miss half the fun. Look up at
the tops of skyscrapers, and you'll see a riot of
mosaics, carvings, and ornaments. Step into the lobby
of an architectural landmark and study its features;
take a look around to see the real people who work,
live, or worship there today. Peep down side streets,
even in crowded midtown, and you may find fountains,
greenery, and sudden bursts of flowers. Find a bench or
ledge on which to perch and take time just to watch the
crowd passing by. New York has so many faces that every
visitor can discover a different one.
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--WHAT TO DO AND SEE:
75½ Bedford Street
House/Mansion, Greenwich Village
Rising real estate rates inspired the construction of New
York City's narrowest house -- just 9½ feet wide -- in
1873. Built on a lot that was originally a carriage
entrance of the Isaacs-Hendricks House next door, this
sliver of a building has been home to actor John Barrymore
and poet Edna St. Vincent Millay, who wrote the Pulitzer
prize-winning Ballad of the Harp-Weaver during her tenure
here from 1923 to 1924. Subway: 1 to Christopher St./
Sheridan Sq.
Address: 75½ Bedford St., between Commerce and Morton Sts.,
New York, NY
303
Museum/Gallery, Chelsea
International cutting-edge artists shown here include
photographer Doug Aitken, painter Sue Williams, and
installation artist Karen Kilimnik. www.303gallery.com.
Subway: C, E to 23rd St.
Address: 525 W. 22nd St., between 10th and 11th Aves.,
New York, NY
Phone: 212/255-1121
African Burial Ground
Cemetery, Lower Manhattan
This grassy corner is part of the original area used to
inter the city's earliest African-Americans -- an
estimated 20,000 were buried here until the cemetery was
closed in 1794. The site was discovered during a 1991
construction project, and by an act of Congress it was
made into a National Historic Landmark, dedicated to the
people who were enslaved in the city between 1626 and
Emancipation Day in New York, July 4, 1827.
www.africanburialground.gov. Subway: 1, 2, 3, J, M, Z to
Chambers St.; 4, 5, 6 to Brooklyn Bridge/City Hall.
Address: Duane and Elk Sts., New York, NY
Phone: 212/337-2001
Alice in Wonderland
Public Art (Mural/Sculpture/Statue), Central Park
Lewis Carroll's heroine from the immortal Alice's Adven-
tures in Wonderland is 11 feet tall and bronzed here, in
one of the most popular statues in the park. Alice sits
queenlike on a giant mushroom, with the White Rabbit to
her left, the Mad Hatter to her right, and the Cheshire
cat above in a tree. The statue was donated to the park
in 1959 by philanthropist George Delacorte. Sculptor José
de Creeft remained true to the John Tenniel's illustra-
tions in the first edition of the book. Subway: 6 to 77th
St.
Address: East of East Dr., just north of Conservatory
Water Boathouse, New York, NY
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Other Places of Interest:
Apollo Theater
Arts/Performance Venue, Harlem
Since 1934, seemingly nearly every big-time black enter-
tainer has performed here. The careers of Billie Holiday,
James Brown, Sarah Vaughan, and Ella Fitzgerald were
launched by winning the Apollo's Amateur Night contest.
But discovering new talent was not what gained the Apollo
its rep; instead the theater was the ultimate venue for
established acts -- the one that proved an artist had
really made it. Crowds were tough and would boo even well-
respected acts if they weren't up to snuff. The result was
some of the best live performances of all time, by artists
like Aretha Franklin, Nat "King" Cole, and Sammy Davis Jr.
James Brown's 1962 recording "Live at the Apollo" is
thought by many to be the best live recording ever made.
Hard to believe that this world-famous slice of Harlem
started in 1913 as a whites-only burlesque hall, called
Hurtig & Seasom's Burlesque Theater. As more blacks moved
to the neighborhood, new owners decided to capitalize on
the growing market, and the rest is history. The Apollo
fell on hard times in the '70s and went bankrupt in 1978.
But it has been back in business since 1983, when the
theater was declared a historic landmark. The Apollo's
star power is not as great as in its heyday, but Amateur
Night is as raucous as ever. Hour-long guided tours are
given by appointment. www.apollotheater.com. COST: Tours
$11 weekdays, $13 weekends. OPEN: Tours by appointment.
Amateur Night every Wed. at 7:30. Subway: A, B, C, D to
125th St.
Address: 253 W. 125th St., between Adam Clayton Powell
Jr. Blvd. (7th Ave.) and Frederick Douglass Blvd.
(8th Ave.), New York, NY
Phone: 212/531-5301 performances; 212/531-5337 tours
The Arsenal
Museum/Gallery, Central Park
Built between 1847 and 1851 as a storage facility for
munitions, the Arsenal predates the park and is the
second-oldest structure within its grounds -- the
oldest structure is Blockhouse No. 1. Between 1869 and
1877 it was the early home of the American Museum of
Natural History, and is now the headquarters of the
Parks and Recreation Department. An upstairs gallery
has changing exhibits relating to park and natural-
environmental design. Olmsted and Vaux's original plan
for Central Park is in a display case on the third floor.
COST: Free. OPEN: Weekdays 9-5. Subway: 6 to 68th St./
Hunter College.
Address: 830 5th Ave., at E. 64th St., New York, NY
Phone: 212/360-8111
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--WHERE TO SLEEP:
60 Thompson
$350 to $475, SoHo
A superb and original design by Thomas O'Brien, along with
a popular lounge and restaurant, instantly anchored this
stunning hotel into the downtown scene. The generous use
of dark woods and full-wall leather headboards gives the
retro-classic rooms a welcoming warmth; a decadent touch
are the FatWitch brownies at turn-down. Marble-swathed
bathrooms have oversize showers, mosaic tile floors, and
Philosophy bath products. Chic Thai restaurant Kittichai
on the ground floor has patio dining and a gold-suffused
bar; rooftop lounge A60 is a warm-weather haven for hip-
sters. www.60thompson.com. 82 rooms, 8 suites. In-room:
safe, DVD, ethernet. In-hotel: restaurant, room service,
bars, concierge, parking (fee), no-smoking rooms, minibar.
AE, D, DC, MC, V. Subway: C, E to Spring St.
Address: 60 Thompson St., between Broome and Spring Sts.,
New York, NY 10012
Phone: 212/431-0400
Fax: 212/431-0200
Beekman Tower
$225 to $475, Midtown East
Three blocks north of the United Nations, this jazzy
1928 hotel is an art deco architectural landmark. Its
swanky Top of the Towers lounge, a rooftop bar with
live piano, is a superb place to take in the view of
the East River and beyond; downstairs, the Zephyr Grill
looks out on 1st Avenue. Suites, which range from studios
to one-bedrooms, are all very spacious, and all have
kitchens. Rooms are attractively decorated with chintz
and dark-wood furniture, and all have separate sitting
areas. The one-bedroom suites have dining tables as well.
www.affinia.com. 174 suites. In-room: safe, kitchen,
dial-up, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: 2 restaurants, room service,
bars, gym, concierge, laundry facilities, laundry service,
parking (fee), no-smoking rooms, minibar. AE, D, DC, MC,
V. Subway: 6 to 51st St./Lexington Ave.; E, V to Lexington-
3rd Aves./53rd St.
Address: 3 Mitchell Pl., at 1st Ave. and E. 49th St., New
York, NY 10017
Phone: 212/320-8018 or 800/637-8483
Fax: 212/465-3697
Broadway Inn
$110 to $350, Midtown West
In the heart of the theater district, this Midwestern-
friendly B&B welcomes with a charmingly comfy brick-
walled reception room with hump-backed sofa, bentwood
chairs, fresh flowers, and stocked book shelves that
encourage lingering. Impeccably clean neo-deco-style
rooms with black-lacquer beds are basic, but cheerful.
An extra $70 or $80 gets you a suite with an additional
fold-out sofa bed, and a kitchenette hidden by closet
doors. www.broadwayinn.com. 28 rooms, 12 suites. In-room:
kitchen (some), refrigerator, dial-up (some). In-hotel:
concierge, parking (fee), no-smoking rooms. AE, D, DC,
MC, V. Subway: 1, 2, 3, 7, N, Q, R, S, W to 42nd St./
Times Sq. Continental breakfast.
Address: 264 W. 46th St., between Broadway and 8th Ave.,
New York, NY 10036
Phone: 212/997-9200 or 800/826-6300
Fax: 212/768-2807
--WHERE TO DINE:
'21' Club
American, $28 to Over $35, Midtown West
It's undeniably exciting to hobnob with celebrities and
tycoons at this four-story brownstone landmark, a former
speakeasy that first opened on December 31, 1929. Chef
Erik Blauberg tries -- and succeeds -- in satisfying
everyone, retaining signature dishes like the famous "21"
burger, game potpie, and other New American food, while
also offering more eclectic fare, such as rotisserie
truffle chicken with potato fig gratin. Service is seam-
less throughout. Jacket and tie. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed
Sun. No lunch Sat. Subway: E, V to 53rd St./5th Ave.; B,
D, F, V to 47th-50th Sts./Rockefeller Ctr.
Address: 21 W. 52nd St., between 5th and 6th Aves., New
York, NY
Phone: 212/582-7200
Acqua Pazza
Italian, $11 to $35, Midtown West
Endlessly chic and sexy, Acqua Pazza attracts all sorts
of clever people. The kitchen has widened its focus from
a nearly all-seafood menu to include meat and poultry,
as well as some highly imaginative pastas, like espresso-
flavor tagliolini with rock shrimp and porcini mushrooms.
For a Milanese presentation, a large veal rib chop is
flattened, breaded, and plated with fluttery arugula,
tomatoes, and buffalo mozzarella -- quite a delicious
bargain at $24. The wine list is especially user-friendly.
Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Subway: B, D, F,
V to 47th-50th Sts./Rockefeller Center.
Address: 36 W. 52nd St., between 5th and 6th Aves., New
York, NY
Phone: 212/582-6900
Annisa
Contemporary, $19 to $35, Greenwich Village
Dining at Annisa is an experience in sweetness and light:
chef Anita Lo's ethereal, creative cooking is served in a
spare bone-color room. Modern French technique mixes with
Asian influences to create seared foie gras with soup
dumplings and jicama, and pan-roasted chicken stuffed with
pig's feet and truffles. The wine list, created by Roger
Dagorn of Chanterelle, features the work of women wine
makers and winery owners. From the innovative hors
d'oeuvres to the delicate petit fours, Annisa raises the
bar on neighborhood dining. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.
Subway: 1 to Christopher St./Sheridan Sq.
Address: 13 Barrow St., between 7th Ave. and W. 4th St.,
New York, NY
Phone: 212/741-6699
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