Publication: I'm Not Martha
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I'M NOT MARTHA - Tuesday, February 5, 2008
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Hi! I'm Lizzy!! and I'm not Martha!!!
The cold has settled in...even the South is wrapped up unseasonable
weather. Friends in Florida have complained of the deep chill. Up
North and out in the Midwest it's positively frigid and the big snows
in the western mountains are pretty amazing. Poor California with
the storms and mudslides. Ai-yi-yi!
So what will fill the chill? What can you make for your family to
get them all together and having fun without the sun? I'm thinking
fondue! How about you???
P.S. If you're interested we now have a forum. You can post
comments on this and recent issues at... Not Martha forum
Each component of a traditional Swiss fondue plays an import role.
Most recipes we see for "traditional" Swiss style fondue are a
combination of two cheeses, Gruyere and Emmenthaler. These two
cheeses are combined because either cheese alone would produce either
a mixture that was too sharp or too bland. The cheeses are most
commonly melted in a dry white wine which helps to keep the cheese
from the direct heat as it melts as well as to add flavor. The Kirsch
(a clear cherry brandy) was added if the cheese itself was too young
to produce the desired tartness. The garlic was for additional
flavoring while the flour or cornstarch assists in keeping the cheese
from separating.
Just like any regional food (chili or BBQ for instance) each canton
in Switzerland has their own "traditional" style fondue.
* Given Fondue is a "communal" meal there are a few basic guidelines
to follow:
Skewers are no substitute for fondue forks!
To eat cheese fondue spear a piece of bread using a fondue fork and
dip it into the pot. Twirl the bread cube gently in the cheese to
coat it. You'll want to let the bread drip a bit before you put it
in your mouth. This will allow the excess to drip back in the pot
and also allow time for cooling.
When you put the bread in your mouth try not to touch the fork with
your lips or tongue because the fork does go back in the pot.
Alternately you can use a dining fork to slide the bread off the
fondue fork then eat it with the 2nd fork. This is probably more
cumbersome than necessary.
* A baguette works very well although any crusty French or Italian
style breads will do. When you slice the bread make sure that each
piece includes a bit of the crust. This crust helps keep the bread on
the fork after it is placed in the cheese.
* Keep the fondue warm over as low heat as possible to avoid
scorching the cheese. Fondue is supposed to stay hot during the meal
but not boil. Boiled cheese sauce of the fondue or any other variety
will clump and become unpalatable.
A fondue pot is typically heated by placing a can of sterno (a fuel
that is comprised of denatured alcohol, water and gel) beneath it.
When planning a fondue dinner, remember not only to buy sterno but to
buy the right sterno. The tall camping stove sterno cans put the
flame too close to the pot and make it bubble uncontrollably. Fondue
pots typically require smaller 2.5 oz. cans of sterno.
* Secrets of success:
Make sure your recipe includes a bit of corn starch, all purpose or
potato flour. The starch in the flour helps to keep the cheese in
suspension which keeps the fondue from separating.
Adding a small amount of lemon juice to the wine increases acidity
which in turn helps to break up the cheese.
When you add the cheese to the simmering wine, stir in a zig zag
rather than circular motion to help break up the cheese.
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CLASSIC FONDUE
1 small garlic clove, halved
1 cup dry white wine
3/4 pound Gruyère cheese, grated
3/4 pound Emmenthaler, raclette or Appenzeller cheese, grated
1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 to 2 tablespoons kirsch (optional)
Kosher salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Freshly grated nutmeg, to taste (optional)
Crusty bread cubes; steamed broccoli or cauliflower; carrot, celery
or fennel sticks; cubed apple; seedless grapes; clementine sections;
cubed salami, soppressata or kielbasa; roasted chestnuts and/or dried
apricots, for serving.
Rub cut side of garlic on inside of large Dutch oven or heavy-
bottomed saucepan, preferably cast iron, rubbing the bottom and
halfway up the sides. Add wine and bring to a simmer over medium-high
heat.
Meanwhile, in a large bowl, toss cheeses with cornstarch. Add a
handful at a time to simmering wine, stirring until first handful
melts before adding next.
Reduce heat to medium and stir constantly until cheese is completely
melted. Add kirsch, if using, and heat until bubbling, about 1 to 2
minutes.
Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, if desired. Serve with crusty
bread and other accompaniments.
Yield: 6 main course servings or 10 appetizer servings.
VARIATIONS from the New York Times
Red wine-garlic fondue: Substitute red wine for the white, preferably
a light-bodied wine like a Loire Valley red. Mince garlic used to
season pot and add it to pot along with wine. Omit kirsch and nutmeg.
Cheddar-whiskey fondue: Substitute
1 1/2 pounds good extra-sharp Cheddar cheese, and Irish whiskey for
the kirsch. Omit nutmeg.
Port wine-Cheddar fondue: Omit garlic and kirsch. Substitute port
wine for the white, and use 1 1/2 pounds good extra-sharp Cheddar
cheese instead of other cheeses.
Raclette fondue with cornichons: Omit kirsch and nutmeg. Substitute 1
1/2 pounds raclette cheese. Thinly slice garlic and bring to a simmer
with wine. Just before serving, stir in 3 tablespoons finely chopped
cornichons.
Chipotle fondue with bacon: Omit kirsch and nutmeg. Substitute 1
pound mild Monterey Jack and 1/2 pound aged Monterey Jack (or use all
mild). Just before serving, stir in 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons minced
chipotle chili in adobo sauce and 4 slices crumbled cooked bacon.
Seedy Gouda fondue: Substitute Gouda no older than 2 years old (older
Gouda might separate). Stir in 1 teaspoon whole caraway or cumin
seeds. Omit kirsch.
Goat cheese herb fondue: Substitute half-and-half for the wine. Mince
garlic used to season pot and add it to pot along with half-and-half.
Substitute fresh goat cheese. Omit kirsch and cornstarch. Stir in 1
tablespoon each chives, parsley and tarragon.
Dark beer caramelized onion fondue: Cook 1 sliced onion in 1
tablespoon butter until dark brown and caramelized, about 10 minutes.
Substitute dark beer for the wine. Omit kirsch. Stir in caramelized
onion.
Do fondue, dear friends....warm the tummy and the heart.
Lizzy
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