Publication: Weekend GetAways Let's Mellow Out This Weekend.... | |
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WEEKEND GETAWAYS - Friday, March 14, 2008
Make The Most Of Your Vacation - From Coast to Coast!
Greetings Getaway Lover,
This Weekend we're going to mellow out in Martha's
Vineyard. A Little Romantic Getaway....
The islands of Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket, as
well as the entire Cape Cod peninsula, were formed
by the slow movements of massive sheets of ice
during the last great Ice Age. Starting about 2.5
million years ago, great blocks of ice, some as much
as 2 miles thick, descended from the frigid northern
climes onto continental Europe and North America. As
the ice slowly but inexorably gouged and plowed its
way south, it pushed before it mounds of earth and
rock. Here, in more temperate climes, and over
thousands of millenniums, the glacial advance slowed
and, some 20,000 years ago, began to recede. During
this period, Martha's Vineyard, as well as Nantucket
and the Elizabeth Islands, was connected to the
mainland, and humans trekked to the area to establish
settlements. As the ice melted, sea levels rose --
some believe today's level is 400 ft higher than dur-
ing glacial times -- and the islands' connection to
the mainland disappeared under water. Receding
glaciers also gouged large holes in the earth, which
in turn fused with underground springs to become the
streams, bogs, and freshwater ponds found throughout
the Cape and islands.
Happy Trails,
Jan
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--DESTINATION: Martha's Vineyard
Far less developed than Cape Cod -- thanks to a few local
conservation organizations -- yet more cosmopolitan than
neighboring Nantucket, Martha's Vineyard is an island with
a double life. From Memorial Day through Labor Day the
quieter, some might say real, Vineyard quickens into a
vibrant, star-studded place. Edgartown floods with people
who come to wander narrow streets flanked with elegant
boutiques, stately whaling captains' homes, and charming
inns. The busy main port, Vineyard Haven, welcomes day-
trippers fresh off ferries and private yachts to browse
in its own array of shops. Oak Bluffs, where pizza and ice
cream emporiums reign supreme, attracts diverse crowds
with its boardwalk-town air and nightspots that cater to
high-spirited, carefree youth.
Summer regulars include a host of celebrities, among them
William Styron, Art Buchwald, Walter Cronkite, Beverly
Sills, Patricia Neal, Spike Lee, and Diane Sawyer. Former
president Clinton and his wife, Senator Hillary Clinton,
were frequent visitors during his terms in office.
Concerts, theater, dance performances, and lecture series
draw top talent to the island; a county agricultural fair,
weekly farmers' markets, and miles of walking trails
provide earthier pleasures.
Most people know the Vineyard's summer persona, but in many
ways its other self has even more appeal, for the off-season
island is a place of peace and simple beauty. Drivers traver-
sing country lanes through the agricultural center of the
island find time to linger over pastoral and ocean vistas,
without being pushed along by a throng of other cars,
bicycles, and mopeds. In nature reserves, the voices of
summer are gone, leaving only the sounds of birdsong and the
crackle of leaves underfoot. Private beaches open to the
public, and the water sparkles under crisp, blue skies.
Locals are at their convivial best off-season. After the
craziness of their short moneymaking months, they
reestablish contact with friends and take up pastimes
temporarily crowded out by work. The result for visitors --
besides the extra dose of friendliness -- is that cultural,
educational, and recreational events continue year-round.
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--WHAT TO DO AND SEE:
Aquinnah Lighthouse
Nautical Site, Aquinnah
Aquinnah Lighthouse, adjacent to the Aquinnah Cliffs over-
look, is the largest of the Vineyard's five, precariously
stationed atop the rapidly eroding cliffs. In 1799 a wooden
lighthouse was built here -- the island's first -- to warn
ships of Devil's Bridge, an area of shoals ¼ mi offshore.
The current incarnation, built in 1856 of red brick,
carries on with its alternating pattern of red and white
flashes. Despite the light, the Vineyard's worst wreck
occurred here in January 1884, when the City of Columbus
sank, taking with it into the icy waters more than 100
passengers and crew. The original Fresnel lens was removed
when the lighthouse was automated in 1952, and it is
preserved at the Vineyard Museum in Edgartown. The light-
house is open to the public for sunsets Friday, Saturday,
and Sunday in summer, weather permitting; private tours
can also be arranged. COST: $3.
Address: Lighthouse Rd., Aquinnah, MA, USA
Phone: 508/627-4441
Black Dog Bakery
Restaurant, Vineyard Haven
The delicious breads, pastries, and quick-lunch items
at Black Dog Bakery are simply not to be missed -- it's
a popular stop for good reason.
Address: 11 Water St., Vineyard Haven, MA, USA
Phone: 508/693-4786
Cranberry Lands
Viewpoint, Aquinnah
A scenic route worth the trip is West Basin Road, which
takes you along the Vineyard Sound shore of Menemsha
Light and through the Cranberry Lands, an area of cran-
berry bogs gone wild that is a popular nesting site for
birds. No humans can nest here, but you can drive by and
look. At the end of the road, with marshland on the right
and low dunes, grasses, and the long blue arc of the
bight on the left, you get a terrific view of the quiet
fishing village of Menemsha, across the water. Lobsterville
Road Beach here is public, but public parking is limited to
three spots, so get here early if you want one of them.
East Chop Lighthouse
Nautical Site, Oak Bluffs
The East Chop Lighthouse was built of cast iron in 1876
to replace an 1828 tower -- used as part of a semaphore
system of visual signaling between the island and Boston
-- that burned down. The 40-foot structure stands high
atop a 79-foot bluff with spectacular views of Nantucket
Sound. East Chop is one of three island lighthouses open
to the public. COST: $3. OPEN: Late June-mid Sept., 1 hr
before sunset-1 hr after sunset, Sundays only.
Address: E. Chop Dr., Oak Bluffs, MA, USA
Phone: 508/627-4441
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Other Places of Interest:
Edgartown Lighthouse
Nautical Site, Edgartown
The Edgartown Lighthouse, surrounded by a public beach,
provides a great view (but seaweedy bathing). The
original light guarding the harbor was built in 1828
and set on a little island made of granite blocks. The
island was later connected to the mainland by a bridge.
By the time the 1938 hurricane made a new light necessary,
sand had filled in the gap between the island and the
mainland. The current white cast-iron tower was floated by
barge from Ipswich, Massachusetts, in 1938. At this area,
called Starbuck's Neck, you can wander about and take in
views of the ocean, harbor, a little bay, and moorland.
OPEN: Closed to the public.
Address: Off N. Water St., Edgartown, MA, USA
Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary
Nature Preserve, Edgartown
The Vineyard's conservation areas are a good way to get
acquainted with local flora and fauna. The 350-acre Felix
Neck Wildlife Sanctuary, a Massachusetts Audubon Society
preserve 3 mi out of Edgartown toward Oak Bluffs and
Vineyard Haven, has 6 mi of hiking trails traversing
marshland, fields, oak woods, seashore, and waterfowl and
reptile ponds. Nesting ospreys and barn owls also call
the sanctuary home. A full schedule of events unfolds
throughout the year, including sunset hikes along the
beach, explorations of the salt marsh, stargazing, snake
or bird walks, snorkeling, canoeing, and more, all led by
trained naturalists. An exhibit center has trail maps,
aquariums, snake cages, and a gift shop. A bit of summer
fun and learning experience combined, the sanctuary's
Fern & Feather Day Camp is a great way for children to
learn about wildlife, plants, and the stars. It runs one-
or two-week summer sessions that include overnight camping
expeditions. Early registration is advised and begins in
February. COST: $4. OPEN: Center June-Sept., daily 8-4;
Oct.-May, Tues.-Sun. 9-4. Trails daily sunrise-7 PM.
Address: Off Edgartown-Vineyard Haven Rd., Edgartown, MA,
USA Phone: 508/627-4850
Flying Horses Carousel
Carousel, Oak Bluffs
A National Historic Landmark, the Flying Horses Carousel
is the nation's oldest continuously operating carousel.
Handcrafted in 1876 (the horses have real horse hair and
glass eyes), the ride gives children a taste of entertain-
ment from a TV-free era. On summer evenings or rainy days,
however, the carousel can get crowded; you can avoid the
crunch by going early in the day. While waiting in line
(the wait is rarely longer than 20 minutes or so), you
can munch on popcorn or cotton candy or slurp a slush.
The waiting area has a number of arcade games. COST: Rides
$1.50; $10 for a book of 8 tickets. OPEN: Late May-early
Sept., daily 10-10; Easter-late May, weekends 10-5; early
Sept.-mid-Oct., weekdays 11-4:30, weekends 10-5.
Address: Oak Bluffs Ave., Oak Bluffs, MA, USA
Phone: 508/693-9481
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------------------------------------------------------------
--WHERE TO SLEEP:
Attleboro House
Under $150, Oak Bluffs
This guesthouse, part of the Methodist Association Camp
Grounds, is across the street from bustling Oak Bluffs
Harbor. The big 1874 gingerbread Victorian, an inn since
its construction, has wraparound verandas on two floors
and small, simple rooms with powder-blue walls, lacy
white curtains, and a few antiques. Some rooms have sinks.
Singles have three-quarter beds, and every room is
provided linen exchange but no chambermaid service during
a stay. The five shared baths are rustic and old but clean.
11 rooms with shared bath. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Oct.-May.
Continental breakfast.
Address: 42 Lake Ave., Box 1564, Oak Bluffs, MA 02557,
USA Phone: 508/693-4346
Bayberry Bed and Breakfast
Under $150 to $225, West Tisbury
The farmhouse-style home in the bucolic Up-Island country-
side sits on land once owned by Thomas Mayhew, the founder
of the island. The rooms are decorated in a country
Victorian style, with lots of blue highlights in the rugs,
trim, and wallpapers. Two rooms on the first floor share a
bath, and the three upstairs rooms have private or semi-
private (designated for the room, but in the hall) baths.
The common sitting room has comfy chairs, a fireplace, and
a piano, but the heart of the inn is the big kitchen, which
has a hearth and glass doors opening to a cherry tree-shaded
brick patio. Don't miss owner Rosalie Powell's famous break-
fast Dreamboat, a boat-shape pastry filled with fresh fruit,
yogurt, honey, and granola. www.vineyard.net/biz/bayberry.
5 rooms, 3 with bath. No kids under 12, no smoking. MC, V.
Full breakfast.
Address: 49 Old Courthouse Rd., Box 654, West Tisbury,
MA 02575, USA
Phone: 508/693-1984 or 800/693-9960
Beach Plum Inn
$225 to $450, Menemsha
This mansard-roof inn, surrounded by 7 acres of lavish
formal gardens and lush woodland, sits on a bluff over
Menemsha Harbor. The floral-theme rooms -- five in the
main house and four in cottages -- have gorgeous furnish-
ings; in the Daffodil room, bathed in shades of yellow
and blue, you'll find a hand-painted queen bed and a
romantic balcony. A vaulted, beamed ceiling rises over
the bedroom of the secluded Morning Glory Cottage. You
will receive complimentary passes to a health club and
free use of chairs, towels, and umbrellas to be taken to
the two private beaches nearby. From many rooms, and also
from the first-rate restaurant, you're treated to stunning
harbor and ocean views. www.beachpluminn.com. 9 rooms.
Some in-room hot tubs, refrigerators, cable TV, tennis
court, concierge; no smoking. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Dec.-Apr.
Full breakfast.
Address: North Rd., Menemsha, MA 02552, USA
Phone: 508/645-9454 or 877/645-7398
--WHERE TO DINE:
The Bite
Seafood, Under $8 to $12, Menemsha
Fried everything -- clams, fish-and-chips, you name it --
is on the menu at this simple, roadside shack, where two
outdoor picnic tables are the only seating options. Small,
medium, and large are the three options: all of them are
perfect if you're craving that classic seaside fried lunch.
But don't come on a rainy day, unless you want to get wet
-- the lines here can be long. To beat the crowds, try
arriving between traditional mealtimes. The best advice,
however, is be patient and don't arrive too hungry. The
Bite is open 11 AM-3 PM in spring and fall and until 8:45
PM in summer. No credit cards. Closed Oct.-late May.
Address: Basin Rd., Menemsha, MA, USA
Phone: 509/645-9239
At the Cornerway
American, $20 to Over $28, Chilmark
Jamaican chef Deon Thomas brings cuisine rich in Jamaican
flavors to this American-style bistro. Braised goat
shoulder with prunes and pearl onions is on the menu for
the adventurous; duck, lamb, venison or garlic-crusted
snapper for those with less exotic tastes. Whichever
pleases your palate, make sure to finish with either the
coconut bread pudding or chocolate rum cake. If you want
to hear what your dinner companions have to say, ask for
a corner seat away from the atrium. The acoustics are
terrible in this barnlike structure that once hosted
square dances. AE, MC, V. BYOB.
Address: Beetlebung Corner, Chilmark, MA, USA
Phone: 508/645-9300
Cafe Moxie
American, $12 to Over $28, Vineyard Haven
Open year-round, this classy restaurant has a handsome
wooden bar (though it's a dry town) and island artists'
work on the walls. A lunchtime favorite is Chef Austin
Racine's mussels steamed in garlic and ginger served
over noodles. Something fancier for dinner is duck
breast wrapped in Swiss chard over a white bean and
duck ragout. You can eat lunch here for under $15. D,
MC, V. BYOB. Closed Mon. No lunch.
Address: Main St. at Centre St., Vineyard Haven, MA, USA
Phone: 508/693-1484
Bar None
Bar, Oak Bluffs
At the far end of Circuit Ave., Bar None is the only club
on the island with a pub-food menu that is served till
midnight. The lighting is nice, the music's not too loud,
and the service is friendly. It's a nice getaway from the
craziness of the Oak Bluffs weekend bar scene.
Address: 57 Circuit Ave., at Balance Restaurant, Oak Bluffs,
MA, USA
Phone: 508/696-3000
********************
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