Publication: Garden Guides
Winterizing Your Garden | |
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GardenGuides Newsletter
November 21, 2006
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Winterizing Your Garden
Protecting Plants
Putting the garden to bed for the winter is mostly a matter
of cleaning up and covering up. As fall progresses and temper-
atures drop, those plants that aren't killed outright by frost
prepare for dormancy. Clear out the blackened stems and foliage
of annual flowers and vegetables to prevent the possibility of
their harboring disease pathogens and insect eggs over the
winter. The cool weather is a good time to make a cold frame,
dig and box in raised beds, and make general repairs.
While it appears as if all activity in the garden has stopped,
there's a lot going on under the soil until it freezes. Newly
transplanted trees and shrubs, divisions of perennials, and
hardy bulbs are all growing roots, drawing on soil nutrients
and moisture around them. Earthworms and various microbes in
the soil are still processing the organic material they're
finding. Most likely, the organic mulch you spread to protect
the soil during the summer months has substantially decomposed.
It's important to spread new mulch now -- a thicker winter
layer -- to protect plants and soil over the winter months.
The idea is not so much to keep the soil warm as it is to keep
the temperature even. Once the soil is frozen, mulch keeps it
frozen. So if you have shade trees, convert the fallen leaves
to mulch and use it throughout your property.
Continued Below...
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Weather
Snow both protects and endangers plants. A good snow cover
insulates the soil like a mulch. However, snow piled on ever-
green branches weights them down, risking breakage. Knock snow
from the bottom branches first, then work upward. This way snow
from above will not add weight to the already burdened lower
branches. If branches are bowed by ice, don't try to free them.
Instead let the ice melt and release them gradually.
-Cut back dry stems of perennials to soil level after frost to
neaten the garden and remove pest eggs and disease spores that
may linger. Leave stems with attractive seed heads for winter
interest.
-Compost dead plant debris to create an organic soil conditioner.
Hot, active piles kill weed seeds and disease pathogens; passive,
inactive piles do not. Throw questionable plant material in the
trash.
-Cut off diseased foliage from evergreen plants and shrubs and
discard it in the trash. Rake up and discard the old, disease-
bearing mulch, too.
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-To prevent rodents from nesting in the soil, wait until the
ground freezes before adding a 6-inch layer of organic
material as winter mulch.
-Mulch perennial and shrub beds with pine needles or chopped
leaves. This protects both plant roots and the soil and moder-
ates the effects of extreme temperature changes during winter
freezes and thaws.
-Mulch bulb beds with evergreen boughs to protect the soil
from shifting and cracking during the winter. Otherwise
plants, especially small, shallowly planted bulbs, can be
heaved to the surface.
-Protect the tender bark of young trees from gnawing critters
by wrapping stems or trunks with wire or commercial tree-guard
products.
-Screen evergreens, particularly exposed broad-leaved types,
from drying winter wind and sun by setting up burlap screens
or shade cloth shelters.
http://www.my-garden-supplies.com
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GopherCentral's Question of the Week
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