Publication: Garden Guides
Houseplants That Clean Your Indoor Air | |
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GardenGuides Newsletter
Tuesday, January 9, 2007
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Houseplants That Clean Your Indoor Air
Certain houseplants help keep indoor air clean by removing
pollutants. The plants that clean air best are decided on
four criteria:
1. Effectiveness in removing the three main indoor pollutants
(formaldehyde, benzene and carbon monoxide)
2. Ease of growing
3. Resistance to insect and disease
4. Ability to transpire moisture.
Based on these the top three houseplants were Lady Palm
(Rhapis excelsa), Rubber plant (Ficus robusta), and English
ivy (Hedera helix). You need two or three full-sized plants
(in 10-12-inch containers) per 100-150-square-foot room for
best results. If you don't have enough room for full-sized
plants, place plants in "breathing zones" in your room, such
as near the bed or office desk, for optimal results.
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How to Grow Herbs Indoors
Herbs are sun worshipers for the most part. As expatriates of
the Mediterranean region, most flavorful herbs don't thrive
in the un-Mediterranean environment and inadequate light our
houses provide. Herbs don't tolerate north-facing windows, or
windows that gets less than 4 hours of direct sunshine a day.
Provide Light
Even if your indoor herbs get their four hours of direct sun-
shine daily, installing supplementary lighting is a necessity.
The light coming through a window may seem bright to your
eyes, but its intensity in winter is often less than one-tenth
of the outdoor light during a summer day. Grow lights will
work if their light intensity is high enough and the spectral
quality is right.
Acclimate Plants Gradually
Plants produce two kinds of leaves in response to strong or
weak light. High-light leaves are thick, strong and narrow.
Low-light leaves are thinner, more delicate and broader than
high-light leaves. But narrow high-light leaves are less
efficient in converting light energy into food than low-light
leaves. High-light leaves are accustomed to an abundance of
light, so they don't have be as efficient at food production.
A plant that is adapted to abundant light often turns brown
and drops leaves indoors. This is because it can't produce
enough food to maintain itself. The plant tries to make food
by shedding the inefficient leaves and producing efficient
leaves higher up and closer to the light source. When you
bring herbs indoors, this leaf drop and increased leggy growth
can happen within weeks, or even days. Some herbs cannot make
the transition fast enough to survive.
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Rosemary is a case in point. This slow-growing evergreen
doesn't have the chance to adjust to changes in light before
the plant slowly starves itself. By January, February or March,
the leaves dry up, and the plant dies. This sudden death is by
far the most common complaint about growing rosemary indoors.
Here's what to do: Gradually adjust the plant to lower light.
Place it in partial shade for two to three weeks, then in
deeper shade for another two to three weeks before bringing it
indoors. When plenty of new growth appears, the plant is ready
to go into the house.
Soil, Fertilizer and Water
After light, proper soil is the next most important factor in
producing healthy herb plants. With few exceptions, herbs
require excellent drainage, especially during the winter
months, when transpiration rates are lowest. When roots are
confined in a pot or planter, water and air cannot move
easily. To improve drainage without sacrificing nutrients, add
sharp sand or perlite to a good sterilized compost-based mix.
Most herbs do well in soils of pH 6 to 7.
Many people incorrectly think that herbs grow better in poor
soil. Flavors are stronger when culinary herbs grow outdoors
in gardens. But in the confines of a pot, supplementary
feedings with liquid fertilizer or organic fish emulsion are
necessary. Feed herbs once a week when plants are actively
growing, but not when dormant.
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Watering is not a trivial matter with herbs. In general, water
less often and more thoroughly, and only when the soil is
actually dry. When the soil is dry to the touch, add water
until it comes out the bottom of the pot. If the water doesn't
come out, pots have a drainage problem. First, check that the
holes aren't blocked; if not, you may have to repot with soil
that has better drainage.
Pests and Diseases
Herbs are susceptible to common pests, including whiteflies,
spider mites, aphids, mealybugs, scale insects and thrips.
Inspect herbs regularly.
If your herbs are in portable containers, control pests by
dipping the whole aboveground part of the plant into a pail of
insecticidal soap. Swish vigorously for a minute or two to wet
all leaf surfaces (hold your hand over the pot to prevent soil
loss). Dipping once or twice a week for three to four weeks
will clear up most problems.
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